In the world of skincare actives, not all are created equal. The mother of over-the-counter actives, retinol, is a powerful, almost unparalleled compound for resurfacing, brightening, and fighting laxity. To some, this Vitamin A derivative in its various forms is a little too powerful. For those whose complexions are sensitive and respond to even the lightest concentration of retinol with unpleasant degrees of irritation and peeling, bakuchoil is an effective alternative found in more and more glow-getting formulations like Colleen Rothschild’s Honey Nectar Radiance Mask.
Biochemist, Certified Cosmetologist-Aesthetician, and founder of the Webby Award-winning clean beauty skincare app OnSkin, Valerie Aparovich describes bakuchiol as “a natural, plant-derived functional analog of synthetic retinoids, providing similar rejuvenating effects while being gentler and better tolerated by the skin. Bakuchiol isn’t associated with common adverse effects of retinol use, such as dryness, irritation, or redness. Unlike retinoids, it also doesn’t predispose the skin to increased sensitivity to UV radiation, making it suitable for both morning and evening use.”
With a thick, emollient texture that melts into the skin like a balm on contact, Colleen Rothschild’s nutrient-dense rich Honey Nectar Radiance Mask combines bakuchiol with Vitamin C, hibiscus extracts and honey, the uber humectant cherished by the Ancient Egyptians for a multitude of health and beauty uses. This simple yet dynamic formulation increases radiance for the ultimate glow in three ways. Vitamin C brightens for an even tone while honey increases hydration for suppleness. As for the bakuchiol, Aparovich explains that “topical bakuchiol speeds cell turnover and promotes skin renewal processes. It supports the production of new structural collagen proteins, helping improve skin texture and firmness, enhance surface smoothness, and reduce fine lines and wrinkles. It also enables a brighter, more even complexion. Bakuchiol’s plant origin empowers it with potent antioxidant properties, helping protect the skin from free radical damage, oxidative stress, and photoaging.”
Applying the Honey Nectar Radiance Mask as a climactic step in a nighttime skincare routine – no matter how minimal or maximalist – is a satisfying ritual. With a light, barely-there brown sugar scent, it cocoons the complexion with a thick layer of luminous-boosting richness. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes, then massage and rinse. The glow and suppleness are instantly noticeable, if not astounding.
Thanks to the non-irritating nature of its actives, it can be applied 2-3 times a week, even, if not especially, in winter when our resurfacing habits should protect the skin barrier threatened by freezing temps. Aparovich adds that the regular use of gentle, well-formulated masks “enriched with bakuchiol can visibly improve skin texture and complexion, making it appear refreshed and more youthful, with the signs of aging less pronounced.”
