Brooklyn Herborium’s Functional Facial

It was my longtime friend Jen who led me to Brooklyn Herborium, a witchy apothecary situated off the south tip of Prospect Park. There was no better enticement than seeing such glowing, youthful skin on a grown woman. As someone invested in clean beauty and a holistic health lifestyle, I knew that Jen’s radiant quality probably wasn’t from some ‘miracle’ in a bottle. A model and long-time lover of plants, Jen’s work with functional facials grew naturally out of her experimentation with botanicals. As for her journey with the Brooklyn Herborium, it began with an Herbal Crafter Apprenticeship at the space several years ago.

Before our session, Jen gave me a quick tour of the space. My eyebrows raised as I passed what was apparently a huge vat of Cow Fart Juice, which Jen informed was one of the Herborium’s leading repair serums. An intoxicating blend of healing herbs with natural antimicrobial (antibacterial, antiviral, & anti-fungal) properties, it’s a common remedy for rashes and chronic skin conditions.

Once sitting down in the cozy, wind-chime-lined room where she performs holistic skincare treatments, I shared my initial questions and concerns with Jen. I was eager to hear some of Jen’s thoughts on the latest skincare trends. While I generally take a less-is-more approach to my skincare regimen, I wanted to know what was helpful and what was hype. From laser facials to injectables to at-home micro needling and agents of supposed ‘glass skin’ like hyaluronic acid and deep exfoliants like silica, I wanted to know what was necessary and what was noise.

I loved the care, presence and wisdom of experience Jen expressed regarding all of my queries. I love that the Brooklyn Herborium’s intake form asked me about my diet, lifestyle and daily habits. With so many magic bullets out there, sometimes it feels like all the flashy promises convince us we can ignore the consequences of our daily actions in pursuit of perfection. Do we actually believe that gummies can give us clear skin and better hair? I love how Jen’s advice never felt restrictive, preachy or purist. While the Brooklyn Herborium works with clients to get to the root of skincare concerns – from acne to dry skin to anti-aging— they truly make an effort to meet clients where they are at, affirming personal agency within a larger constellation of self-care.

Jen Jaffe of Brooklyn Herborium

I was surprised to learn that, in general, Jen recommends skipping the cleanser in the morning and the moisturizer at night. Not only does this approach lessen our carbon footprint and quell the urge to constantly consume and self-improve, but it also gives our face time to air out and breathe. While she suggests rinsing simply with water in the morning to maintain the skin’s natural oil/water balance, a tiny bit of a water-based cleanser is okay occasionally in the morning when you feel grimy. We also talked about facial bathing. During seasonal shifts, when many of us tend to experience more dry skin, Jen recommends applying a thin layer of a natural oil cleanser, then steaming over a pot of boiling water, and afterward removing the oil with a steamy hot washcloth.

As for harsher, more controversial treatments like micro-needling or actives like Retinol, Jen suggested that these are not necessarily off limits, but that many folks tend to overuse them. Along with a host of other beauty treatments qualified as ‘controlled injuries,’ the important thing to consider is that the lengths we go to get that glow on our wedding day might not be suited for weekly regular use on every date night, although a lot of more profit-minded companies will tell you otherwise. The same goes for Retinol, which can be both irritating and drying, depending on your skin’s sensitivity. If you are using active products, you do not need to exfoliate as often, says Jen.

“If someone is having challenging breakouts or irritations, this can be part of the detective work. For example, we may encourage them to notice if they get hangry, and ideas around that, of course, look at hydration, incorporating mineral-rich foods like broths, cooked veggies, or soups,” says Jen. And yet, she doesn’t necessarily start there. With most clients, simply taking a more integrated, intentional, organic, and plant-based approach to skincare works wonders.

Let’s get into the basics of Functional Facials. Tailored support for the skin in its quest to function at optimal vibrancy, Functional Facials resist and reset the effects of time, stress, and environmental factors, particularly with long-term consistent care. During my session, Jen performed the Level 2 Facial, which included a springtime rose renewal exfoliation, a blended clay mask with seaweed and herbs, treatment reflexology, lymph drainage massage, and light therapy enhanced with crystals and sound healing elements. At this level, clients are invited to choose from the Herborium’s menu of targeted Integrative Therapies: for Congestion and Dehydration, Barrier Repair, Biome Rehabilitation, Reducing Redness and Reactivity, Damaged Skin, or Maintaining Radiance at Every Age. With radiance as my desired result, I was pleasantly surprised to discover the effects of the facial seemed to evolve over the next few days. According to Jen,  “The effects continue to radiate as the skin cells move outward.”

Not only did the whole treatment feel like a cosmic spa ship (one of the founders is a Reiki III certified Therapeutic Sound Practitioner), but on my way out, Jen loaded me up with goodies. My personalized ‘Pore Refining Regimen’ suggests rotating two natural cleansers, one oil and one oat-based, followed by 3-5 pumps of the Herborium’s Pore Refining Mineral Mist. Paired with the No Evil Oil Cleanser, made simply of olive squalene, came an Organic Bird’s Eye Washcloth used to remove the cleanser after use. She also gave me a few masks to experiment with. The Sow Your Wild Oats grain cleanser exfoliant is one of Jen’s favorites. The Deep Green Biome Mask is typically used as a ritual mask or as a short, gentle cleanse. For deep treatment, the Pore Refining Clay Mask can be used weekly or monthly. Made with kelp (seaweed) and clay, this deeply penetrating mask is great for dry or congested skin, removing impurities and revitalizing inner glow.

Traditionally used to DRAW out (not dry out) impurities, clay works through adsorption. As good as gold, the Earth’s silica, iron, magnesium, calcium, sodium, zinc, and other minerals bind with metabolic and environmental toxins that other types of cleansing don’t address. “I prefer to think of clay like mud! Keep it damp while on by misting with fresh water or relaxing under a warm, wet cloth to keep it active and hydrated,” says Jen. Applying the mask for just  8-10 minutes later in the day or evening is all it takes.

In addition to an impressive array of Functional Facials, Brooklyn Herborium is known for its sustainably developed, high-quality, botanically-based, organic as possible, fair-trade, gluten-free Herbal Infusions and Herbal Medicinals. The love child of herbalists Molly Watman and Emma Graves, each infusion is made with flowing energy and intention. Molly’s lightning strike moment as an herbalist happened amid the hormone-induced paranoia she experienced postpartum with her first child. Since then, she’s committed to making her own cleaning and personal care supplies the way our great-grandmothers did 100 years ago. More than just kitchen witches, herbalists Molly Watman and Emma Graves have not only laid new groundwork with clean, integrated beauty to support the skin’s natural state of health, but also created a thriving, woman-led community around herbal wisdom.

Promoting the understanding that truly beautiful skin is not simply ‘under control,’ but strong and vibrant, the first line of defense involves making sure our habits and skincare rituals support the skin’s fundamental needs and overall agency. With herbal wisdom gleaned from thousands of years of wise woman experience spanning the globe, Brooklyn Herborium is committed to sourcing the best ingredients available–organic, sustainably wild-crafted, and as close to home as possible. Prepared in small batches with oodles of love, gratitude, joy, compassion, and generosity; an intentional relationship with their suppliers is what makes the Herborium’s holistic skincare products above and beyond.

Click below to learn more about this beautiful community and its ever-evolving offerings. In addition to the abundance of clean beauty best bets available in the curated online shop, check out the Herborium’s series of daily regimens correlated to Moon, Sun & Earth cycles. Because a supportive skincare regimen follows nature’s calendar, not trends or algorithms.

Learn More HERE

Katie Cercone

Katie is an interdisciplinary artist, yogi, curator, writer and astro-feminist based in New York City. Katie teaches GENDER TROUBLE in the Visual & Critical Studies Department at SVA. To learn more about her yoga and astro-oracle offerings, follow @parvati_slice on Instagram.