How can I persuade you that the best place to eat in Italy is not around the corner of a Venetian canal, or tucked away in a Roman alleyway, but at the end of a bus ride to a small village? My favourite meal in Italy was not in a restaurant, but in a home, where my maitre d’ was the family cat, and where I was welcomed so warmly it felt like visiting old friends.
Arriving “Home”
Work had brought myself and a friend to Friuli-Venezia Giulia, a region of northeast Italy bordering Slovenia and Austria. But it was a quest to try the best local food that brought us to Paola’s house in Tavagnacco, a gorgeous village framed by the Dolomites in the distance. We were desperate to get off the well-trodden tourist route that ploughs through Venice, and never really stops to look around. So the Cesarine, a network of home cooks through Italy, offered the perfect opportunity for a warm evening away from the crowds.
I was a little nervous as we approached the village. My Italian is shoddy, and I was totally new to the area. But the door was flung open, and Paola, along with her lovely husband and daughter, welcomed us warmly in perfect English.
The First Course
We began our meal with some delicious local sausage and a charcuterie board. At least, that’s what I would have called them, as an uninitiated Londoner whose culinary palette rarely stretches beyond fish and chips. It turned out to be Pestàt di Fagagna and Pitina, traditional delicacies. This was a history outside of the textbooks, as Paola’s family and her recipes were intricately entwined with the region. She explained how her husband’s Slovenian heritage had influenced her cooking, and how traditional recipes sprung from the need to use everything available locally, and do so sustainably.
But, enough history—we were onto the next course. Did I mention it was five courses?
The Main Event
Paola presented the village’s specialty, white asparagus, wrapped in perfectly crisp ham. Then some unbelievably creamy polenta, mixed with the region’s best cheese. Next came a pumpkin gnocchi, my personal favourite, which was freshly made and cooked as we lounged in the kitchen, feeling lazier and fatter than Paola’s tabby cat. Finally, as we were begging for mercy, a delicious course of bean stew, and a homemade cake to finish it all off.
As Paola spoiled us rotten, we learnt plenty about the region and its dishes. The more active traveller can try their own hand at an Italian home cooking experience with the Cesarine, taking a little bit of Italy’s slow food tradition home. It’s a truly unique way of dining—food better than any restaurant, and the warmth of a dinner shared with friends. Laughing around the table with Paola, and her family, we felt really welcomed to Italy. The Cesarine are not only brilliant chefs, but also experts on the local area, and Paola gave us a long list of recommendations for the rest of our trip.
The Goodbye, For Now
We came to Paola’s house looking to try the local food. We walked out with our bellies full, our ribs sore from laughing, and ready to savour everything else Italy had to offer us. For the evening, we were locals.
If you’re in Italy, Paola’s home and many others could make a wonderful stop on your visit. Find out more via the Cesarine site here.
Several BN NYC’s writers have ventured to Italy to bring back the best tips: check out our guide to Ischia, or get a taste at home with Ponti vinegars.
