Have you heard that the stinky French toner that’s been viral for years as a holy grail facial in a bottle – Biologique Recherche’s Lotion P50 1970 – is no longer available in the states? Phenol, a key ingredient in the exfoliating formulation, is now banned in the US. No worries, though. Biologique Recherche has a full line of phenol-free toners, crafted from the same French botanical tradition, for all skin types, as well as a line for the latest beauty obsession – skin care-level ingredients and treatments for a purified scalp and healthy hair growth.
Just like our complexions, at-home care with exfoliating masks and results-driven serums are great for day-to-day maintenance, but a professional treatment a few times a year is where real progress is made. After experiencing the purifying and lifting wonders of Biologique Recherche for my pores last fall with the Biologique Recherche Ice Facial At Paul Labrecque, I made a beeline back to the Paul Labrecque Salon & Skin Care Spa to achieve the same results on my scalp with the tried and true, science-backed, botanical formulations from this historic French beauty house.
As one of the first NYC outpost for all things Biologique Recherche for the last twenty-years, the Paul LaBrecque Salon & Skincare Spa specializes in the brand’s 5-step Lotion P50 Capillaire Purifying Hair & Scalp Treatment, in addition to being a destination to explore and shop its full range makeup, skin, and hair care.
Next door to the newly designed Louis Vuitton flagship store, around the corner from Bergdorf Goodman, the Paul Labrecque Salon and Skincare Spa promises luxury before stepping into the stunning 9th floor atelier with sweeping city views. After being greeted by the welcoming staff, I was introduced to Master Hairstylist Frederic Moine. The French native, who cut his teeth on precision haircuts and styling backstage at the Paris and London Fashion Weeks for years, has been an integral member of the Paul LaBrecque Salon and Skincare Spa for 20 years. I was in very good hands, master stylist hands.
After an assessment of my hair and scalp, Frederic explained the 5-part Purifying Hair & Scalp Treatment and its benefits. He reminded me of the centrality of a healthy scalp for healthy hair, and detailed the evils of dry shampoo. He also pointed out that my recently highlighted hair was dry, especially at the ends, and – I’m so embarrassed to admit, – there was a lot of buildup on my scalp – flakes, sebum, heavy silicone products – despite my monthly scrub.
Step 1: The Pre-Cleanse with Lotion P50 Capillaire
After rinsing, Frederic parted my hair and meticulously applied the lotion to every inch of my scalp. Surprise – it’s not stinky at all! The botanical brew of lemon, sage, ginger, apple cider vinegar, and rosemary in a base of witch hazel and lactic smells clean with a bracingly fresh aroma, the way we want our scalps to smell. With the lotion seeping into my scalp and clean fragrance putting me at ease, Frederic administered a scalp massage like no other, with the firm and relaxing touch of a scalp and hair whisperer.
Back at the bowl for another thorough rinse, Frederic reported that the detritus washing away was visible. I could feel the beginnings of a sparkling clean scalp and declined the offer to view the culmination of prolonging wash days.
Step 2: The Masque – Dermo-Apaisant – Regenerating Soothing Mask
To a purified scalp, in a genius reversal of most hair treatments, Frederic then applied the creamy, olive oil-based, probiotic rich mask directly to my newly cleansed scalp, covered my hair in a plastic cap, and put me under a hood dryer. This step, reminiscent of hot summer afternoons spent in Dominican hair locales for roller-sets, lasted only 10 minutes and added another soothing dimension to this luxury beauty treatment on a frigid winter afternoon.
Step 3: The Shampoo – Shampooing VIP O2 Protective Treatment with Oxygenating Complex or Shampooing Nutri-K Repairing and Nourishing Treatment Care
After rinsing off the mask, it was time for the shampoo phase. For my recently highlighted hair, Frederic used Shampooing Nutri-K, rich in nourishing oils crafted to rehydrate and heal colored, processed hair. For those in need of deeper cleansing, Shampooing VIP O2 focuses on another level of cleansing, repairing and anti-inflammatory nurturing with oxygenation to remove pollutants and protect from future toxins similar to Biologique Recherche’s other cult product Masque VIP O2 Oxygenating Anti-Pollution Mask. The clean, sulfate-free formulation allows the blend of tea tree oil, probiotic ferments, and shea butter do their magic with gentle surfactants for a pristine clean from scalp to ends.
Step 4: The Conditioner – Creme de Soin High Nutrition Detangling Mask Conditioner
To my squeaky clean scalp and detoxed strands, the hair and scalp whisperer applied Creme de Soin for additional hair nutrition and to prep for the next phase of the treatment. Rich in shea butter, the mother of nourishing plant oils, lactic acid to seal the cuticle, and fragrant, anti-inflammatory, floral extracts, this formulation is everything I expect from a storied French hair care brand. It detangled and conditioned my hair so well, my natural ringlets revealed themselves as if virgin hair.
Step 5: The Leave-In – Keractive Bi-Phase Protective Hair Care Product Finishing Serum
Back in the chair, it was almost time for the blowout. Frederic explained the fifth step as most crucial in sealing in the hydration and pH-balance of the hair and scalp to protect from pollutants for long-lasting results. Equal parts liquid and oil, the Keractive Serum harnesses the same ingredients used in steps 1-5 for the grande finale of the treatment: ginger, apple cider vinegar, almond oil and mint extracts. After being so thoroughly moisturized and detangled in Step 4, my hair drank up the serum and allowed for maximum glide of the round brush..
Step 6: The Blowout
After a lifetime of countless blowouts, I know that I’m bad at them, and that they are best left to professionals like Frederic. In true hair whisperer fashion, with what seemed like effortless movement and minimal heat, he transformed my 3c ringlets into a straight, flowing shoulder-length coif in less than 20 minutes. Gone was the buildup and flakiness that I still peep sometimes after at-home wash days and blowouts. My scalp felt exactly the way my face feels after an excellent facial – detoxed, taut, and supple.
To recreate this treatment at home, one could try, but for best results, this one is for the professionals at Paul LaBrecque Salon and Skincare Spa. Merci beaucoup Frederic and Paul Labrecque Salon and Skincare Spa.
