Why choose between a casual pizza night and an upscale raw bar? At Wilder, you don’t have to. This Sansom Street standout is blurring the lines of the traditional American bistro, serving up a sophisticated mix of family and group gatherings along with fresh seafood in one of the city’s most stylish settings. If you find yourself in Philly, put this spot on your radar. Here is what I discovered.
A bold, royal blue banquette anchors the lounge, complemented by faux animal-print accents that invite you to settle in. Nearby, the dining area feels like a curated curiosity shop, adorned with crystal chandeliers, rustic wooden branches, and repurposed holiday lights. It’s a space of fascinating contradictions—both festive and stark, yet undeniably intentional.
On the day of my visit, the restaurant was bathed in unseasonable winter warmth. The space felt energized as sunlight poured through open glass doors. Guests occupied every corner—from the lively bar to the upstairs dining room and even al fresco seating at the curb. While the decor might be polarizing to some, the quality of the food is indisputable. Watching the service is like witnessing a choreographed dance; the staff moves with military precision, navigating multiple floors to coordinate between the various prep stations and the back of house.
I suggest beginning your visit with a cocktail, mocktail, or local beer. The drink list features cleverly named concoctions like the Jefferson Martini and Dionysus’ Revenge. The crowd is as diverse as the menu, ranging from Rittenhouse Square debutantes to tourists from Europe, China, Japan, and Australia. You might find yourself seated next to a member of the Pennsylvania Dutch community or a die-hard Philly sports fan; they all fuel the vibrant atmosphere.
The “Small Plates” are aplenty, but I strongly recommend the fresh oysters. My server, Daniel C., guided me through a daily selection of mollusks from Rhode Island, New York, and Maine. I understand that raw seafood isn’t for everyone, but as someone who appreciates and even farmed for them on the Atlantic, I found these mollusks fresh and exceptional. For those seeking more “grounded” options, Chef Ryan LaFrance offers seasonal delights like Marinated Honeynut Squash, Pull-Apart Rolls, and Honeycrisp Apple with Burrata.
The “Large Plates” feature heavy hitters like Calabrian Hot Chicken, Grilled Hanger Steak, and Grilled Swordfish Alla Ghiotta. However, I opted for the pasta selection, specifically the Mafaldine Alla Vodka. It turned out to be a signature dish for a reason. The ribbon-like (mafaldine) pasta arrived perfectly al dente, tossed in a savory pink sauce with a touch of basil and a generous portion of shredded jumbo lump crab. It was so delicious that a to-go container wasn’t necessary.
I typically pass on dessert, but I found myself craving a sweet finish. The menu offers tempting options like Key Lime Panna Cotta and Chocolate Mousse, alongside classic ice creams. When I mentioned my craving for pistachio to Daniel, he insisted on “making something happen” himself. What returned was a bit of a mixed bag: a single scoop of butter pecan (a far cry and nut from pistachio) along with one of the grainiest espressos I’ve ever experienced. I suppose he thought I wouldn’t notice the difference—a small hiccup in an otherwise stellar meal.
Buon appetito! And while you’re in the city, be sure to explore the bakeries of South Philly for authentic cannoli, zabaglione, and sfogliatella.
Wilder
2009 Sansom Street
Philadelphia, PA
19103
215.309.2149
For lodging nearby, check out my travel review of Club Quarters Philadelphia.
Photos: P. K. Greenfield
