Don’t let the spare décor or the no-frills seating fool you. Miyako, located at Amsterdam Avenue and 93rd Street, is not a restaurant you visit for the ambiance. It’s a gem in a sea of corporate restaurants and fast-food joints that are not as savory or scrumptious as in years past. This place offers delicious cuisine at a good price and while the walls are not adorned with decorations, the focus is always on the food.
Miyako may have a quiet storefront, but it functions as the epicenter of a nightly neighborhood hustle. It sends out a constant pulse of energy onto the avenue, fueling a frantic swarm of delivery bikes and a steady line of waiting cabs. The sheer volume of orders flying out the door is a testament to its reputation, validating what I’ve believed for years: this is Japanese cuisine worth your time and appetite.
A brief history of Bento: What began as a simple packed lunch for farmers during Japan’s Kamakura Period (1185–1333) has evolved into a culinary art form. Originally modest bamboo containers, these boxes transformed into stunning works of prized lacquerware, blending function with high fashion.
The cuisine at Miyako is deeply personal and comforting for me; it conjures vivid memories of visiting my younger brother, Bobby, when he lived and worked in Japan (above). From the energy of Tokyo to the coastal calm of Kamakura, I wanted to share this authentic cuisine with my friend and colleague, Ross. I recently brought him to this neighborhood landmark and convinced him to try one of the bento box options.
Miso Soup is the quintessential Japanese starter, both nourishing and delicious, and Miyako’s version is a perfect example. It arrives first—a steaming, savory dashi broth filled with delicate cubes of tofu and floating seaweed. It’s included in your order for lunch or dinner. The taste is a classic, comforting blend of salt and deep umami, setting the perfect stage for the meal to come while offering a wealth of health benefits.
When Ross’s bento box arrived, it was a beautifully composed meal. While the design of the dish has changed over many centuries, it still consists of a perfectly balanced diet: sliced beef glistened in the traditional tangy sauce, complemented by a crisp salad, delicate shumai dumplings, and a classic California roll.
The Japanese version shumai is also called shao mai. Originally from china, this dumpling typically contains minced pork, onion and few typical Japanese seasonings. It is different than your larger, boiled or steamed, dumplings and petite but also packed with flavor with a crispy, pan-seared texture.
I ordered the Pork Katsu (Tonkatsu), a true icon of Japanese comfort food. This dish is a tender pork cutlet made with panko breadcrumbs and deep-fried until irresistibly crunchy. It’s a foundational dish in Japanese cuisine, and while the pork is traditional, they also offer this dish made with chicken cutlet. You’ll often find it as the heart of other beloved meals, including katsudon and katsu curry.
Keep in mind the next time you find yourself on Manhattan’s Upper West Side—perhaps after a visit to Central Park, Riverside Park, or the Museum of Natural History—this is the perfect place to chill and dine with authentic cuisine from Japan.
I’d like to also point out that the staff working at this restaurant are above and beyond the grade of an A+. They all remembered me as a local patron and had no idea that I was going to write about this.
Tanoshimu. It means good appetite.
MIYAKO
642 Amsterdam Ave.
New York, NY
10025
Photo Credits: Miyako and P. K. Greenfield
