Grasse, France – Ground Zero for perfumery
When I was a child, my mother’s perfume smelled so heavenly that when she entered a room or a car, the atmosphere suddenly transformed into a olfactory Garden of Eden. Her fragrances were elegant without being overpowering, light without lacking substance, and lovely without a harsh, chemical after-cloud. They were so interwoven into my childhood memories that, for a while, I was a fragrance editor – such is the power of childhood influence. She favored a variety of different brands that have all morphed into something else entirely over the years, so I cannot recreate her perfume experience now. However, opting for these clean perfume brands below does recapture an era in which fragrance could be savored with impunity, and they usher in a new era of artful, beneficial perfumery.
But what, exactly, constitutes a clean fragrance? Not all synthetics are harmful, and not all natural ingredients are safe, so it’s wise to ask an expert. An authority on the subject, Darryl Do is a fragrance expert who has worked at his family business, Delbia Do Fragrances for 20 years, and is involved in creative perfumery and regulatory where he oversees the compounding, formulation and bulk filtration process in everything from Indie niche beauty brands to pharmaceutical brands. He specializes in creating fragrances for niche brands and manufactures perfumes for many global brands, and speaks globally on cosmetics regulatory and USDA Organic compliance. He is also currently an Editorial Advisor for Perfumer & Flavorist magazine and an active member of American Society of Perfumers, WFFC, Fashion Group International, & NY Society of Cosmetic Chemists and Cosmetics Industry Buyers & Suppliers — so he knows of what he speaks! His insight: “Overall, the clean category is an effort to omit ingredients that could potentially be harmful, irritant or of concern. Sephora has their definition of what is clean as well as Credo. I like the offerings from The 7 Virtues, Heretic, Ourside, Henry Rose, and Ellis Brooklyn.”
It’s good to have ingredients vetted through third-party toxicology review and backed by robust safety data. In many cases, clean synthetics are safer, more stable, and more sustainable than their natural counterparts. More than 3,200 undisclosed ingredients can lurk under the word “Fragrance,” so a perfume that is EWG-verified has nothing to hide, and does not contain hormone disruptors, phthalates, parabens, or carcinogens. With that knowledge in mind, all of these clean brands are spectacular:
Richard Rochon Disco Sets / DISCO12
“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.” — Proust
If you’re not sure which perfumes you’ll like, Richard Rochon has two tracks of discovery sets, each containing five 2ml sprayers, which are perfect for travel and sampling. Track I is the lighter side of things with florals and citruses, and Track II lands on the darker side with moody, sexy notes. You have to love this concept! Mix and match to create your own discovery sets.
RRO2 – Favor the Bold – Crisp citrus over black tea and woods. Fresh power. Quiet flex.
RRO5 – Salad Days – A green floral built for movement. Bright, clean, never still.
RRO7 – September 9 – Deep rose and leather. Earthy, elegant, and just a little dangerous.
RRO8 – Ste Paul De Vence – Salt air, basil, and coconut heat. Ripe, green, and impossible to forget.
RR10 – Forevermore – Bright citrus and sage on steady ground. Airy, calm, magnetic.
Regular price
RRO1 – Burn The Ships – Smoke, spice, and no way back. Dark, dangerous, unforgettable.
RRO3 – Limerence 27 – A cool floral with lift. Green, subtle, skin-close seduction.
RRO4 – Ride With Icarus – Vanilla without weight. Tonka, sandalwood, ambition in flight.
RRO6 – Kill Your Darlings – A green rose with a sharp edge. Clean lines. No softness.
RRO9 – Joy in the Juice – Salt, moss, and mineral woods. Clean wildness. Elemental tension.
You can also order a custom Discovery Set Track to suit your preference once you’ve tested these offerings. I assumed I would prefer Favor The Bold and Ride With Icarus, but after sampling it turns out Burn The Ships and Limerence 27 captured my nose an heart instead.
Have fun with these mini fragrance delights.
Price: $50 per set
Follow: @RichardRochonFragrance
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This is a delightfully light-spiced fragrance that tantalizes and isn’t overpowering in the least. I am definitely entranced with it. You can even spritz it in your hair without worry. Apply to pulse points for a scent that will conform to your own body chemistry. Infused with precious botanicals and a floating ruby associated with royalty, this is a spicy perfume that you can wear year-round due to it’s lightness.
TOP: Yuzu citrus, Sicilian bergamot peel
HEART: Powdered botanical ambrette, Madagascan vanilla bean, Cardamom spice
BASE: Soft sandalwood, Smoky Moroccan and Virgina cedar, Tobacco
What delivers an olfactory treat is New Caledonian Sandalwood, sustainably grown in New Caledonia. It’s warm and sweet, ideal for a wintry day.
Price: $250
Follow: @lilfox.miami
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I have found my own personal fragrance nirvana in Ayuna’s Dojo. Ethereal, luxurious, and lovely beyond articulation, I could conceivably inhale my wrists with pleasure all day if it weren’t so impractical. “Less is beauty” is the mantra for this masterfully created perfume that melds sophistication with emotional well-being. Dojo’s tribute to beauty is wearing perfume as a sensory and meditative experience, and the brand Ayuna derives pride in creating a natural perfume with 65% of its ingredients organically sourced.
Dojo has an impact, then disappears, which makes the fragrance yours only temporarily and reminds us of the fleeting beauty in life. It offers the perfect aromachological combination to inhale dojo and exhale beauty in the form of aroma so the skin emanates its own beauty. This is suitable for any age or gender and is free of synthetic fragrances, controversial preservatives, and is microbiota-friendly and cruelty-free.
Price: $189.00
Follow: @lessisbeauty
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It’s impossible not to admire and fervently want to support Layermor’s manifesto: “Layermor exists because no one should have to choose between scent and safety. Our fragrances are transparent, toxin-free, and meant to be layered for all-day wear. With nothing to hide, and everything to love.”
Layermor’s Amal The Parfum is comprised of white flowers, amber, and musk and smells fresh, clean, and lovely. This brand not only meets, but it exceeds, the world’s strictest benchmarks for ingredient safety. Every formula is EWG-Verified™, which is the gold standard for transparency and health protection. They proudly publish every ingredient used, and each is independently reviewed by toxicologists.
Price: $80
This is a lightweight, antioxidant-rich oil that nourishes your skin while anchoring your perfume. Designed to be worn solo or layered with perfume for all-day wear, it contains sunflower seed oil, avocado fruit oil, jojoba oil, and rosemary. This is so soothing when cold, harsh weather sets in, and is even useful for after-sun hydration.
Price: $60
Follow: @Layermorfragrance
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L’Hantise, w“The Haunting” or “The Obsession,” is intriguing and ideal for this autumnal time of year. This inventive indie fragrance brand creates olfactory symphonies, connecting music and fragrance in imaginative compositions that linger in mind. With creative names such as Knife Thrower, Faisan D’or, Latin Errant, Le Bain De Lulu, and L’Hantise, Buchart Colbert is both a force of art and nature.
L’Hantise evokes a surreal flashback that fades into a wearable, dreamy whisper for day or night. Rife with florals, bright citrus, and smoky vetiver that lingers haze-like in an other-worldly cloud, this is an ineffable fragrance that is vegan and fair-trade.
Top Notes: Rosewood, Red Currant, Bergamot
Heart Notes: Muguet (Lily of the Valley), Raspberry, Herbal
Base Notes: Vetiver, Patchouli, Amber
Quality: Floral, Ozonic, Mysterious
As a violist, founder Sean Colbert brings to perfumery the same sensibility that the viola provides an orchestra, bridging melody and harmony to create fragrances with depth and cohesion. Guided by partner Sean Cavenaugh, each fragrant composition underscores their brand’s commitment to distinctive artistry and utmost quality. L’Hantise, The Haunting, is inspired by the hypnotizing melodies of Chopin’s waltzes and études. L’Hantise has aptly been described on their website by a user as “a green that is almost black, like a forest in the middle of the night without a moon in the sky.”
Price: $148
Follow: @BuchartColbert
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If you’re looking for something portable, affordable, clean, and mix-and-match blend-able so as to create your own fragrance to suit the day and occasion, then consider a natural roll-on perfume. The perfumes from Incense Sticks fit the bill so beautifully. They tuck into pockets, purses or luggage, so you can have a few on hand to freshen up or transition from day to night scents on the go.
For example, I adore their Lemon roll-on when I want a light refresher during the day, and it mixes so well with balancing Cedar to add more depth. For evening, I blend in Bergamot. You’ll find other blend-ables, such as geranium, tea-tree, lavender, and more. Based in Kirkland, WA, this is a fantastic brand for clean perfumery. Stuff a few in stockings this year – you’ll have a choice of 12 different offerings for the perfume-layering enthusiasts in your life, and the bonus is that they are clean-ingredient.
Price: $9.99 / Coupon Code: superstar25 for 25% off at IncenseSticks.com
Follow: @incensesticks
